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Greece's Enduring Wine Heritage
Modern vintners struggle to preserve native grape varieties in this ancient land

By Lynn Alley, Wine Spectator

Nearly 3,000 years ago, the Greek poet Hesiod sang the praises of Greek wine made from a grape variety referred to as "Biblio." Back then, Greek wines were the toast of the Mediterranean world, and Greek grapevines were planted as far away as Massilia (which is now known as Marseille).

Biblio may be extinct, but its descendants, indigenous grape varieties such as Robola, Savatiano, Xinómavro and Agiorgitiko, are producing interesting and unique wines that are little known outside their native land. For most American wine drinkers, Greek wine is still largely exemplified by retsina, the rustic, resinated white wine served chilled in tavernas throughout the Greek mainland and islands, as well as in Greek restaurants in America.

Yet today Greece is home to much more than retsina. With its rugged mountains, fertile valleys, windswept islands and rocky coastline, Greece's geography provides dramatic settings for its vineyards and wineries. It's also a land steeped in history, where a new generation of cutting-edge vintners is pursuing modern visions of winemaking. They face immense challenges, from pressure to make wines using international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, to the decline of the traditional village life that has for so long nurtured Greece's unique grapes. In addition, some are women, a rarity in the male-dominated wine industry.

One of the most ambitious is Marianna Markantonatos, co-owner of Gentilini Winery on Cephalonia, one of the Ionian Islands off the coast of western Greece. Her wines are made from Robola, a white grape indigenous to the Ionians. Her yearly foray into Cephalonia's mountain villages to buy grapes from small, independent growers is an example of the enduring power of tradition in this proud land.

"Every year, we have to negotiate for the Robola," says Markantonatos. "Even though our core group of growers has been the same for the last 16 years, the ritual must be observed."

As harvest approaches, she travels with her husband and partner, Petros, and their English-born winemaker, Gabrielle Beamish, to meet with the head of the mountain growers' co-op at his home. "We call him the Robola King, because without his blessing, no one will sell grapes," says Markantonatos. "He is a fiercely proud man of the soil, and great care must be taken not to offend him."

Respecting the ways of Greece's still-vibrant agrarian culture is an important part of the negotiation process. It's a world apart from the bulk markets of California or France, where thousands of gallons of wine can be purchased sight unseen. "Sickly sweet Greek coffee and the customary preserved fruits must be downed," explains Markantonatos. "Then the dance begins. Each side takes turn wailing their woes and airing problems, even though the end result is a foregone conclusion.

"In the end, he will give us his best grapes, just as in previous years. Then we are escorted around to the other growers to announce the successful negotiations."

Until the 1970s, Greece lagged far behind other European wine-producing nations. Growers' cooperatives developed a reputation for making poor quality wines, which were usually sold from the barrel in Greek wine shops and restaurants. Political instability and the lack of financial resources and technological know-how perpetuated the production of low quality wines.

But in 1981, Greece joined the European Community, a move that led to economic stabilization and set the stage for the development of a truly modern wine industry.

Leading the way was Yiannis Boutaris, a member of one of Greece's oldest and most powerful winemaking dynasties and the founder and president of Ktima Kir-Yianni winery. Beginning in the 1970s, Boutaris and his brother, Constantine, current head of J. Boutari and Son Wineries, invested years of research in the indigenous grape varieties found in four different regions of the country: Naoussa and Goumenissa in the mountainous north, and the islands of Santorini and Crete. Boutari's Cretan estate manager, Yannis Kostantakikis, reputedly rescued the rarest of the many Muscat varieties, Muscat Spinas, from near-certain extinction.

"Our central idea was to establish a core of indigenous varieties in each appellation," says Boutaris. "If all vineyards were established with the noble international grape varieties, we would end up with one or two similar styles of wine: like Coca-Cola and Coca-Cola light."

In 1996, Yiannis Boutaris left J. Boutari and Son Wineries to found Ktima Kir-Yianni winery in Naoussa, which is on the forefront of viticultural and enological research today. Boutaris' elder son, Stellios, runs the marketing and financial aspects of the winery; his younger son, Mihalis, has recently completed a master's degree in the department of viticulture and enology at University of California, Davis, in 2000, where his thesis centered on a study of indigenous Greek varieties.

For Yiannis Boutaris, the connection between wine and culture is fundamental. "Growing and developing local grape varieties, not only in Greece but also in every wine-producing country, highlights local cultural identities," he says. "The constant investigation and evolution of the local varieties and their wines is a vital part of the concept of terroir, and feeds the creative powers of the region's cultural identity."

Many have equated Boutaris' influence on the Greek wine industry with that of Robert Mondavi on Napa Valley's. Boutaris has worked tirelessly for the common good of the Greek wine business, and many of Greece's most important young winemakers have come through the ranks of the Boutari wineries.

Bordeaux-trained Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, for example, began his career as a winemaker for Boutari in 1989 and is now a rising star in the Greek wine industry. In 1992, Paraskevopoulos left Boutari to found Gaia, which now has wineries in Nemea and on the volcanic island of Santorini. Like many of Greece's cutting-edge winemakers, Paraskevopoulos, who has a doctorate in enology from the University of Bordeaux, applies modern French winemaking technology to the production of wines from Greek grape varieties. Unfiltered, unfined Gaia Estate wine, for instance, is aged in new oak for 12 months and is designed to last for as long as 10 to 15 years.

At the Gaia winery he and partner Leon Karatsalos built in Nemea in early 1997, Paraskevopoulos works almost exclusively with Agiorgitiko (known in English as St.-George), the native red grape variety of the Peloponnesian peninsula. In the hands of a skilled winemaker, Agiorgitiko produces a dark, full-bodied, complex red wine with soft tannins.

Paraskevopoulos also makes a white wine from Assyrtiko grapes on Santorini. Considered by many to be Greece's best white grape, Assyrtiko is capable of maintaining its acidity while ripening under the blistering Mediterranean sun.

"When I first began working on Santorini 10 years ago," says Paraskevopoulos, "I thought the issue was technology. Now I believe the real issue is how to convince people to continue to grow their vines. We are in danger of losing a historic, rare and unique grape variety.

"The old vineyards of Santorini are being ripped up for hotels, and, of course, the more they rip up, the less natural beauty there is to attract tourists. The locals are abandoning their vineyards because it is no longer a profitable business for them. The younger people are not interested, and the average age of the vigneron here is 65. I just don't think the locals have caught on yet," says Paraskevopoulos, who is working to have the island's vineyards declared a world heritage site by UNESCO.

Bordeaux-trained Yannis Voyatzis also began his career with Boutari. Voyatzis, who still works as chief enologist for Boutari, decided to pick up the thread of traditional winemaking in his native village of Velvendos. In 1997, Voyatzis opened Ktima Voyatzis, located in the rugged mountains of western Macedonia. In addition to small plantings of international varieties used for blending purposes, Voyatzis has about 20 acres of Xin-mavro, the dominant red grape variety of northern Greece.

A light snow fell outside Velvendos' one café as Voyatzis drew a diagram of his vineyard on a paper napkin. "Half of my vineyard is devoted to white varieties, and half to red," he said. "In addition to the Xinómavro and some Cabernet and Merlot for blending, I've got an experimental vineyard of local red and white varieties." Small squares on the napkin marked off the experimental blocks.

"Ten years ago, my father, who owned a small tavern over the mountains, visited vineyards all around Velvendos," Voyatzis continued. "There's a strong tradition of home winemaking in this region, and the theory has always been that more is better. The more varieties packed into your vineyard, the better your wine will be.

"My father gathered cuttings from as many different local red and white varieties as he could find. And today, those cuttings constitute the population of our experimental vineyards," says Voyatzis.

A few moments later, steaming platters of slow-cooked goat and lamb stew arrive at the table, and a round of tannic, inky-black Tsapournaki, one of Voyatzis' experimental varieties, virtually unheard of outside of Velvendos, gets poured into simple taverna glasses. "If I could do something else with my life, it would be to devote it to probing the history of Greece's grape varieties," he says.

Haroula Spinthiropoulou also started her career with Boutari, where she experimented with selections of Xinómavro. Spinthiropoulou, now in her early forties, has devoted much of her life to the study of Greek grape varieties. Several years ago, she temporarily left her husband and son in their village just north of Thessaloniki to complete a master's degree at Montpellier under one of France's preeminent authorities on grapevine identification, Jean-Michel Boursiquot.

Spinthiropoulou has walked through many of the vineyards of her homeland, studying and cataloging indigenous Greek grape varieties for the past seven years. In 2000, she produced the country's first modern compendium of grape varieties, complete with illustrations and descriptions of the economically viable indigenous grapes, as well as more obscure varieties. The book, Wine Varieties of the Greek Vineyard (Olive Press), with entries on 199 grapes, is considered a landmark reference in the industry.

Upon her return from Montpellier, Spinthiropoulou joined forces with Vitro Hellas, an agricultural production and trade company located near Thessaloniki. Says Spinthiropoulou, "When I started here, Vitro was [using] only foreign grape varieties, but I managed to convince them of the need to focus on our Greek varieties. Such work had never before been done on an organized basis."

After years of work with Greek grapes, Vitro has become the first nursery facility in Greece to offer virus-free, superior vines of native origin. (Vitro may soon be exporting some of its indigenous Greek grapes to California, where a group of researchers from UC, Davis, is searching for new varieties that may do well in California's hot spots.)

Another woman who owes much to Boutari is winemaker Roxane Matsa, daughter of a one-time Greek ambassador to the United States. Matsa makes wine under the Domaine Matsa label from her 7.5 acres of 60-year-old Savatiano vines and her small plots of Assyrtiko and Malagousia in Kanza, not far from Athens. Savatiano, Greece's most widely planted white grape variety, provides the basis for much of the country's white table wine, as well as for retsina. But Matsa's old-vine estate Savatiano, harvested early to keep acid intact, is the country's first nonresinated quality wine made from Savatiano.

Says Matsa, "I inherited my property in Attica when I was very young. We had always covered our expenses by selling grapes from our vineyards, but after '75, we actually started losing money on the land. I was finishing school, and in the back of my mind I was searching for ways to keep this property." She eventually hooked up with Boutari, which wanted vineyard sources in central Greece.

"Boutari literally saved both me and my land. I had the use of the Boutari agronomist and enologist. There was no way I could have paid for such advice myself. And if I had been standing by myself, I would have had to be out pounding the pavement and selling my wine instead of tending my vineyards, which is what I love to do."

Matsa echoes the sentiments of Greece's new wave of winemakers in her conviction that her nation can carve a role for itself in the modern wine world. "After all, the Italians have been doing it for years, and doing it well. Why shouldn't we?" she says. To do so, Greece must honor the past while keeping an eye on what lies over the horizon. It's an outlook that the ancient Greeks would have found familiar. "Our only way to stand out in the international market is through the use of indigenous Greek grape varieties," she proclaims.

Lynn Alley is a freelance writer based in Southern California.

 

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