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By Jerry Shriver,
USA TODAY
| Hard to pronounce, easy to love: The 2000 Haggipavlu
Olympos Hellas Aghiorgitiko, 2002 Techni Alipias Sauvignon Blanc,
2000 Domaine Spiropoulos Red Stag and 2002 Boutari Moschofilero
offer a taste of Greece. The Moschofilero, in particular, has
made a breakthrough in the USA. |
Between now and next summer's Olympic Games in
Athens, much of the attention will focus on whether various Greek
institutions can whip themselves into shape in time to host a party
for the world.
Fortunately, Greece's winemakers
already have done their part, having spent the past decade modernizing
their 4,000-year-old industry and turning it into a source of well-made,
distinctive wines. Set aside those memories of retsina, the rustic,
pine-resin-flavored wine that long has been the country's most famous
(some would say notorious) vinified product. It's still around,
but it's giving way to elegant white wines made from indigenous
grapes, such as Moschofilero and Assyrtiko, and complex, meaty reds
made from Xynomavro and Agiorgitiko.
They're a mouthful, but a tasty mouthful.
"The average consumer still thinks all Greek wine
is retsina, until they put (a modern) one in their mouth and taste
it. Then they're sold," says Andrea Englisis of Athenee Importers,
which represents about 25 Greek wineries in the USA.
After Greece joined the European Union in 1993, its
wine industry followed the same progressive path that has revolutionized
quality so dramatically in Italy and Spain. Today, many of Greece's
top winemakers are young and ambitious and have trained in France,
California and Australia. And the government has helped wineries
upgrade equipment and plant vineyards to meet EU standards.
As a result, the past five years have seen a gradual
shift away from mass-produced generic wines and toward more finely
crafted boutique bottles. Importers say that among the 200,000 cases
of Greek wine sold in the USA in a typical year, the fastest-selling
bottles are those priced at $10 to $20. More significantly, the
best bottles are finding a home on wine lists of both Greek and
non-Greek upscale restaurants.
"They add breadth and depth to a list," says Englisis,
noting that restaurateurs are more interested in wines from indigenous
Greek grapes because they offer interesting alternatives to the
chardonnays and merlots. Conversely, in retail stores, consumers
who just want to dip their toes in the water are more likely to
start with Greek wines from familiar grapes - chardonnay,
merlot, cabernet.
"Either way, we have it covered," she says.
Though Greek wines are making headway - U.S.
imports in 2002 were up 22% in volume and 31% in value over 2001
- marketing and consumer education are major barriers to mainstream
acceptance.
More than 250 indigenous wine grapes and two dozen
traditional European varieties grow in Greece. Many of the varieties
are hard for Americans to pronounce, and some have alternative spellings.
Greece also has nearly a dozen major growing regions, all of which
means some homework is required to understand the labels and the
wines.
"Some producers spend $5 million on the winery,
but there's no marketing plan," says Konstantine Drougos, founder
of Amerikus Wines & Spirits, which represents 14 Greek wineries
in the USA. "We'll see amazing, world-class wines coming from Greece
in the next five years, but to sell them you still have to associate
them with a story."
For Drougos, the story is that Greece is "the Napa
of Europe, with several thousand years of history on top of it.
It has so many perfect places to grow grapes, and the grapes have
their own character. We can produce fruity wines because we get
lots of sun, but they also have good acidity because a lot of the
vineyards are high on mountains."
One wine that has made a significant breakthrough
is the Moschofilero from Boutari, one of Greece's largest producers
of fine wine. The floral-scented, velvety-textured white wine sells
for about $14 retail and has been extremely popular at upscale mainstream
restaurants since it was introduced in 2000. Paterno Wines International,
which imports the Boutari wines, says it sold 7,000 cases in the
first quarter of this year and projects annual sales to reach 20,000
cases within a few years.
"This is a wine that people just like to drink; they
don't believe it's Greek," Paterno CEO Anthony Terlato says. "Normally
when you import a Greek wine, you go straight to the Greek restaurants,
and then it ends because the transition (to the mainstream) is difficult.
With this wine, we decided to avoid the Greek restaurants and go
everywhere else. It was accepted immediately."
Terlato doesn't see a breakout red wine yet, but he
believes Greek wines in general will continue to flourish, regardless
of the Olympics connection.
"People won't drink Moschofilero because it's Greek;
they'll drink it because they like it," he says. "If the Olympics
helps, that's fine. Regardless, this project is on course."
Getting a grip on Greek wines can challenge even the
most dedicated oenophile (a word that originated in Greece, by the
way). A bewildering number of grape varieties grow there in a variety
of microclimates spread over a vast area.
But exploring wines beyond the ubiquitous retsina
is worth the effort, because many are well-made in a modern style
and deliver great value.
Two tips for shopping:
- Look for wines with one of the major appellations (growing
areas) on the label, such as Nemea, Noussa, Santorini or Mantinia.
That way, you'll avoid the generic wines of lesser quality.
- Focus on wines made from these top indigenous grapes: Moschofilero,
a spicy, floral white from Mantinia; Assyrtiko, a crisp, elegant
white from Santorini; Agiorgitiko, a soft, berry-flavored red
from Nemea; and Xynomavro, a full-bodied red wine from Naoussa.
Here are a few currently available bottles that showcase
Greece's breadth and depth (retail prices are approximate):
- 2002 Megapanos Winery Savatiano, Attica, $8. Soft, refreshing,
bone dry. Food match: shellfish.
- 2002 Techni Alipias Sauvignon Blanc, Drama, $15. Citrusy bouquet;
zesty flavors of lime, minerals and grass. Food match: seafood.
- 2002 Boutari Moschofilero, Mantinia, $14. Floral aroma; juicy,
spicy flavors of citrus and melon; elegant texture. Food match:
grilled fish, quiche.
- 2002 Miliarakis Vilana, Crete, $14. Rich and ripe with pronounced
vanilla and pear flavors. Food match: smoked fish.
- 2002 Boutari Kallisti, Santorini, $18. Weighty texture, oak-accented
flavors of pears and caramel; made from the Assyrtiko grape. Food
match: pork, chicken, cream sauces.
- 2002 Gaia Estate Thalassitis, Santorini, $18. Full-bodied with
a velvety texture; generous flavors of smoke and citrus; made
from the Assyrtiko grape. Food match: grilled fish, chicken.
- 2000 Haggipavlu Olympos Hellas Aghiorgitiko, Nemea, $11. Aromas
of green pepper; hefty weight; soft herbal flavors tinged with
smoke. Food match: smoked meats, stews.
- 2000 Domaine Spiropoulos Red Stag, $11. Rich, soft, spicy flavors;
made from Agiorgitiko grapes from Nemea. Food match: roast lamb.
- 2000 Hatzimichalis Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Attica, $17. Sweet
and herbal aroma; meaty, herb-tinged black cherry flavors. Food
match: roast meats, hard cheeses.
- 1997 Boutari Grande Reserve, Naoussa, $15. Made from the Xynomavro
grape; nice acidic backbone reminiscent of a Chianti; oak-tinged
cherry-raspberry flavors. Food match: roast lamb, grilled meats
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