| |
By Gerald Asher
...
When you’re serving
A GREEK MENU
GREEK WINES, TOO, have reinvented themselves since
the country joined what was then the European Common Market. But
perhaps it would be more accurate to say that Greece re-discovered
itself. Its growers resisted the temptation, for the most part,
to plant Chardonnay and Cabernet. Instead, to preserve their identity,
they brought Greek varieties of ancient pedigree back into cultivation
and, by applying modem techniques, revealed qualities that had been
forgotten.
A new generation of winemakers with experience in
Bordeaux, Burgundy, and California Yiannis and Mihalis Boutaris
of Kir Yianni and George Skouras of Domaine Skouras among them are
reviving the pure and lively fruit of Xynomavro, the black grape
of Macedonia; the voluptuous power of Agiorgitiko. a traditional
grape in the valley of Nemea; the stony bite of Santorini's Assyrtiko;
and the bright, floral perfume of Moschofilero a grape particular
to Mantinia, in the Peloponnese.
The sheer delight is finding so many "new"
wines that taste so distinctly and delectably of themselves and
that go so naturally with our Greek menu, the whites with the mezedes
(pages 181-2) and the reds with the braised rabbit (page 182) The
Muscats of Samos and Patras sweet wines that complement our honey
and nut pastries (page 185) have probably changed little since classical
times.
- Heliopoulos, Santorini'01 ($15)
- Kourtaki, Crete'00 ($8)
- Palivou Vineyards, "White
Fox," Corinth '01 ($13)
- Tselepos, Mantinia 01 ($12)
- Domaine Skouras, Saint George,
Nemea'00 ($11)
- Kir Yianni, Ramnista '97 ($18)
- Notios, GAI'A, Peloponnese '01($9)
- Achaia Clauss, Patras ($9)
- Boutari, Samos ($12)
|