|
By Michael Franz
Wednesday, March 26, 2003
So, you might ask, what's the deal with all this coverage
of Greek wines? This is the fourth column I've devoted to wines
from Greece in the past 18 months, and since they are relatively
obscure here I could understand your curiosity. Has he married into
a Greek family? Or perhaps run up gambling debts to a Greek creditor?
Nope. The simple fact is that these are the most newsworthy
wines around. No other country is sending us wines that are so strong
and yet so little known. The best bottlings are absolutely delicious
and extremely versatile with food. In terms of aroma, flavor and
texture, they are often interestingly different than wines from,
say, California or France. However, they are very well crafted and
are neither quirky nor challenging. Anyone can enjoy them from the
first sip. And apparently many do: I've received more favorable
reader reactions to the Greek wines I've recommended here than to
any others I've done in the past nine years.
This is not to say that there aren't a few dogs out
there. In this latest round of reds, I tasted some wines that were
oxidized or otherwise below modern winemaking standards. However,
most of the wines that fell short in my judgment were not insufficiently
modern but rather excessively so. That is, fewer wines were spoiled
by the use of old barrels than by new barrels that overwhelmed the
fruit with oak. Similarly, I tasted fewer wines that were dirty
or weird than ones that were technically flawless but just plain
boring. This is what modernity means in terms of wine, and -- for
better and worse -- the Greek wines we're seeing here today are
roughly as modern as what we're getting from Spain, Portugal or
southern Italy.
In the past, I've concentrated on wines made from
indigenous Greek grapes, but this time around I've included some
excellent reds made from French varieties, along with wines made
from Greece's top two red varieties: Xinomavro and Agiorgitiko.
Recommended wines appear in order of preference within categories,
with appellations, approximate prices, and local wholesalers indicated
in parentheses:
Xinomavro is the dominant grape of northern Greece.
It is sometimes rendered as "Xynomavro" or as "Xino Mavro." The
grape's characteristics include deep color and prominent acidity
(the name means "acid black"), as well as tannins that can be hard
and astringent if the fruit isn't ripened fully. However, wines
made from Xinomavro can age extremely well, developing aromatic
complexity comparable to fine Burgundy or Barolo, and in warm years
they can be soft and delicious even in youth.
Karyda (Naoussa) 2000
($20, Vina Mediterranean, 301-599-8380): This is a stunning wine
from a tiny estate that devotes its five acres of old vines exclusively
to Xinomavro. Everything here -- including bottling and corking
-- is done by hand, and the payoff for all the effort is a wine
of astonishing complexity and interest. Ripe and ready now, this
will continue to improve for at least another five years.
Boutari Grande Reserve
(Naoussa) 1997 ($20, Ithaka, 703-237-6518):
Intricate, detailed aromas from ripe fruit, restrained oak and bottle
aging make an exceptional wine, with a soft texture and a wonderfully
symmetrical finish.
Boutari Naoussa (Naoussa)
2000 ($12, Ithaka): A terrific bargain
and a really excellent rendition of Xinomavro, this shows medium
body and lots of nice little aromatic nuances, with sufficient stuffing
to get even better with age.
Agiorgitiko or St. George is widely considered the
best variety in the Peloponnese in southern Greece and is closely
associated with Nemea. By contrast to Xinomavro's angular profile,
Agiorgitiko is all about round, soft suppleness. Wines from this
grape consistently deliver the lush, smooth feel that is stereotypically
linked with Merlot.
Gaia Estate (Nemea)
1999 and 2000
($29, Constantine, 410-992-1400): Pricey but marvelous, these two
wines show Agiorgitiko at its very best. Both are deeply flavorful
with notes of both red and black fruits, and both are virtually
perfect in how the fruit is balanced by tannin and wood. The 1999
is a bit more integrated right now, whereas the 2000 holds a bit
more aging potential.
Notios (Gaia Estate)
(Peloponnese) 2001 ($14, Constantine):
Yet another beauty from this producer, with vibrant fruit, deep
flavors and a soft, rounded feel.
Palivou Vineyards
(Peloponnese) 2001 ($15, National,
202-388-8400): Lovely aromas of ripe fruit, chocolate and wood smoke
lead the way here, followed by fresh fruit flavors and a nice long
finish.
Tselepos (Nemea) 2000
($16, Dionysos, 703-550-2250): Soft and supple, this is a charmer
from the moment the cork is popped. Fresh berries and cherries are
firmed up with just enough tannin to give the wine a little backbone.
Boutari Nemea (Nemea)
2000 ($12, Ithaka): True to Agiorgitiko,
this is soft and ripe and plumy, and thankfully is as approachable
in price as in texture.
Chateau Carras (Cotes
de Meliton) 1997 ($30, Constantine):
A gorgeous, perfectly mature, varietally true, fantastically complex
Cab with loads of complexity and class. Stunningly good stuff.
Domaine Gerovassiliou (Epanomi)
Syrah 2000 ($20, Vina Mediterranean):
Impressive, showing both excellent material and impressive craftsmanship.
The Syrah fruit is so strong that it conceals almost all of the
100 percent new oak in which it spent its first two months, as well
as a 10 percent dash of Merlot that goes unmentioned on the label.
Meaty and very satisfying.
Domaine Skouras (Peloponnese)
Cabernet Sauvignon "Cuvee Prestige" 1998
($19, Constantine): Most Skouras wines are absurdly over-oaked but
this one is just beautiful, with vivid varietal character and just
enough oak to enhance the delicious fruit. Tastes like a $30 wine.
Fragou (Trifilia)
Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 ($14, Dionysos):
With deeply flavored blackberry fruit with lots of interesting little
nuances, this is a great bargain.
Biblia Chora (Pangeon)
Cabernet (60 percent) Merlot
(40 percent) 2001 ($18, Vina Mediterranean):
This complete and convincing wine shows very expressive fruit but
also interesting old-world complexities and impressive structure
from acidity and tannin.
Boutari Merlot/Xinomavro
(Imathia) 1999 ($21.50, Ithaka):
This blend seems quite sensible intuitively, and in fact it really
works. With medium body, expressive aromas and lovely balance and
integration, it is seamless and very impressive
|